Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Dall Sheep/ Caribou Hunt

I'm getting packed up to leave on another adventure tomorrow night floating either the Talachulitna River or Lake Creek to do some fishing. I wanted to quickly do a post on the dall sheep/caribou hunt I did with my friend Eric last week.

I got drawn for a coveted dall sheep hunting permit in the Tok Management Area. Eric agreed to come along and hunt with me. He registered for a caribou tag as we thought that if we saw a nice caribou it would be nice to have the option to harvest one. We hiked a couple miles up a creek south of the Alaska Hwy and set up camp on the night of the 8th. It rained most of the day on the 9th so we decided to wait to move the camp up valley closer to sheep country. That night we saw a group of bull caribou up valley from us and thought that Eric may try and take one if they were still there the next day (the 10th was the opener for both sheep and caribou).

Sure enough we ran into the same four caribou bulls the morning of the 10th as we were walking up valley moving camp. Eric made a great shot on the biggest bull from about 70 yards and we spent the remainder of the day butchering the caribou. Since the temperatures were in the 40's we decided to store the meat under my tarp tent and continue hunting dall sheep. The next two days Eric and I hunted sheep and saw a few legal rams (the rams need to have full curl horns to be legal to harvest). One of the rams we saw in the nearby drainage looked to be a nice full curl so the plan for the 13th was for Eric to pack out the first load of caribou meat to the truck and I'd try and find the ram we had seen on the evening of the 12th.

As it's been said before: "the first casualty of every battle is the plan". On my way over to the nearby drainage I ended up seeing a group of 10 rams in the drainage we were camped in. I had spooked them a little but they didn't run off too fast so I decided to try and get above them and see what happened. I did get above them but the fog rolled in and reduced my ability to navigate. I didn't end up getting a shot but it was very exciting to get above the rams and watch them. The season ends September 20th so I'll have a few more chances to get out to the area and give it another try. We spent the 14th hiking out with the 2nd half of the meat, the antlers and camp.

Looking up valley

Eric and the bull caribou

The men in white pajamas return

Luke on the way back to camp from a nearby drainage

Rams hanging out for the afternoon

Eric with the caribou antlers wrapped in Tyvek to make walking through the brush easier

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Family Visits

We've been pretty busy lately with summertime activities (fishing, hunting, berry picking, house projects, work, etc) so we haven't kept up too well with our blog posts.

In late July we went back to WI and MN to visit family. It was the first time ever that all the three Boles siblings (Luke's dad Joe, and his sisters Liz and Kathi) along with their children were all together. We had a great time visiting with everyone and enjoying summertime activities in the upper midwest. Here are some pics:

Liz, Kathi (Luke's aunts) and Joe (Luke's dad)

Dinner with The Boles', Halls and Linda (Emily's mom) and Tina (Youcha family friend)

Molly and Allegra (Luke's cousins)

Miles and Bernie fishing (Luke's cousin and uncle)

Miles and a sauger he caught

Luke at RJ's Meats in Hudson, WI buying sausage

Luke and Bella (Molly's new puppy)

Huck, Gus, Ruby (Luke's nephews and niece) and Emily fishing

Emily, Ruby and Della (Luke's mom) in the kayak

Emily and Luke making faces in the boat

The following weekend Emily flew to Omaha for the Rosenberg family reunion (Emily's grandma Florence Rosenberg's (Dad's Mom) family). It was great to see her immediate family (Victor, Linda, Jacob and Anika) and to meet/catch up with a bunch of her cousins.

Rosenberg Reunion

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Tangle Lakes/Delta River

Midnight fishing on the Tangle Lakes

Over the 4th of July weekend we canoed the Tangle Lakes/Delta River. We were accompanied by our friends Mike and Arrianne (who live in Brooklyn and were visiting AK for the first time), Jen and Scott, and Jeff and Heather (who also brought along Hadley and Harriet, their two dogs). It was a Jim Dandy of a trip. We had excellent weather except for the last day, although for the last section a light drizzle beats a headwind eight days a week and twice on Sunday!

Emily and I left Fairbanks Thursday afternoon and drove down to the Tangle River Inn to launch. The plan was for Scott, Jen, Mike and Arrianne to stay at the camp ground near the boat launch Thursday night (they'd be arriving pretty late after driving the Denali Hwy from Denali Park) and catch up to us on Friday morning. Jeff wanted to get a training ride in in preparation of defending his title in the Fireweed 200 bike race taking place the next weekend so he was planning to ride from Fairbanks to Delta Junction (about 120 miles from his house) where Heather and the dogs would pick him up. They planned to then launch Friday afternoon and try to catch us Friday night or Saturday morning on the float.

UPDATE: Jeff won the 200 mile race and set a new course record. Congrats Jeff!!

Emily and I had a nice tailwind on Thursday night so we decided to head down to one of the lakes and camp where we camped last year after our wedding ceremony. We got up the next morning to great weather and lounged around camp waiting for the rest of the gang to catch up. The wind had switched directions so we figured it may take the crew a bit longer to make it to us. I paddled around awhile casting for lake trout but didn't pull anything up. We decided to make an apple crisp in our dutch over as we figured they rest of the crew would be hungry after battling a headwind across the lakes. Deciding to give the fly rod a rest I casted a spoon from shore near camp and caught a nice lake trout. It was a pretty nice lunch of fried lake trout and apple crisp when Scott, Jen, Mike and Arrianne arrived.

We decided to stay another night at the lake camp and hope Jeff, Heather and the dogs would catch us later that evening. We dined on caribou hobo dinners and more lake trout (Mike's first laker). After dinner Mike and I headed down to the lake to cast for lake trout and and watch for Jeff, Heather and the dogs. Although we didn't see the rest of our party the lake trout action turned out to be pretty hot. Before too long everyone came down to watch or join in on the fun. The picture above is of me catching a 25" laker on my eight weight fly rod. We landed over a half dozen and kept one more that Mike caught (a 24-25 incher) to eat the next day. It was far and away the best lake trout action I'd ever experienced.

Jeff, Heather and the dogs caught up to us the next morning and we headed down the lakes towards the portage. The portage went well. We even passed a group that wasn't exactly packed for portaging (at least 2 large coolers, a 24 pack of 20oz Gatorade bottles, etc.). The rapids after the portage went off without a hitch and we headed down river to one of our favorite campsites, the beaver camp. At Beaver camp the water is calm for watching the beavers cruise and the fishing is good. We had an excellent dinner of venison fajitas, sat around the campfire and mixed in a little fishing.

The last morning we had a steady drizzle but, as we said earlier, that definitely beats a headwind in the final section. After a breakfast of cornbread from the dutch oven we set out on the final section. Despite the weather the scenery was excellent. Fortunately the weather broke by the time we got to the takeout so breaking down the boats/gear was a dry enterprise.

Another great trip down the Delta!

Mike and Arrianne

Scott and Jen

Jeff, Heather and the dogs entering the rapids after the portage

Emily at the lake camp

Yukking it up at the Portage

A quiet night at Beaver Camp

Mike and his first lake trout

The first laker of the day from the honey hole

Monday, June 30, 2008

The First - and hopefully not last - King


Well, I finally did it. I landed a Chinook (aka king) salmon on a fly rod. The adventure did turn the rod into an eight piece rod (it started life as a seven piece rod) but that made the experience more memorable. I actually wasn't too bummed about the rod breaking as it has a lifetime warranty and it also ranks dead last in the running for my favorite fly rod all time.

The fly and the damage done

I was staying in Glennallen and McCarthy for work last week. I had the chance to get out fishing on the Gulkana during the evening Monday after we had taken out for our float down the upper section. I hooked a king that night but lost it after about 10 minutes when I tried to force the issue and it took off downstream and broke the line. I was pretty bummed after that fight as it was, at that time, the best opportunity I had to land a king. Previous to that I had hooked three others and no fight lasted more than about 5 minutes.

So after I finished up my work duties last Thursday I had planned to get back on the Gulkana and give it another shot. Fortunately for me the Gulkana looked like chocolate milk after the rains that we had canoed through earlier in the week. So I decided to try another stream I'd read about (which shall remain unnamed). I wasn't sure that there would be kings in the stream but I had read it also has dolly varden char and grayling. So I walked downstream with my four weight rod casting dry flies. The habitat looked good but i rose nary a fish. The stream was crystal clear and only about 10 yards wide at its widest. About a quarter mile downstream I looked into a deep hole and to my amazement saw about a dozen king salmon swimming around. I was pretty excited to say the least. I went back to the car to grab the 10 weight, the camera and some bear spray (if there are salmon around there is often bruins nearby as well).

Casting a nine foot, 10 weight fly rod, with an obscenely large and weighted fly, in tight quarters is not the most graceful enterprise. In fact, no one would have confused me with Brad Pitt's character in A River Runs Through It. After testing the distance to the overhanging alders on the other side of the river for a couple casts I finally landed the fly in the water. On about the third drift I was able to drift one right down main street to a salmon that had moved into the middle of the channel just downstream of me. He chomped down on it and the fight was on. The fight is actually kind of a blur. I remember hearing the rod snap and thinking it would be another battle lost. With the rod in two pieces and holding onto the line I was able to coax the fish near enough to me and grab my net. For anyone out there that is thinking of trying to land a 25 pound salmon with a trout net I'd council against it. I felt kind of foolish when I swiped down with the net and it barely covered the fish's head. Perhaps the net trick confused him as he went belly up when it happened. I quickly grabbed him at the base of the tail and threw him up on the bank where I snapped a few pics, removed the fly and sent him on his way. I decided not to keep him as he was quite a ways from salt water and was turning pretty red. The meat loses its firmness the farther the fish get from the ocean. I was pretty glad to have finally landed a Chinook.

With the king rod broken I figured I'd head back towards Fairbanks and fish a few spots I like to fish for grayling and lake trout on the way back home. However, prior to heading north, I decided to call a guy I'd met earlier that week that lives in Chitina to see if the dipnetting had picked up yet. He said the fish were running and that people were catching their limits of sockeyes in the Copper River. So I headed down, fished all night and caught my limit (30 sockeye). I spent most of the weekend cleaning and vacuuming sealing fish. Emily was busy with the NICOP so I had the pleasure of processing fish mostly solo (Brian swung by Fri night and helped with the first 6-8 fish). I cleaned out last years fish from the freezer, brined them and threw them on the smoker today and just finished canning them. I also made salmon jerky from the rib and belly meat of this year's fish, which turned out great. We're definitely set for salmon for another year!

Salmon jerky

Last year's salmon - smoked and canned

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Canoeing the Gulkana


Last weekend we met up with friends Jen and Scotty from Denali Park and Sveta and Martin from Fairbanks and took 3 hardshell canoes down the Gulkana River. The Gulkana, located south of Paxson and north of Glennallen, is considered a "wild and scenic" river but can be done from highway to highway and was about a 50 mile float over 3 days of paddling. Luke and I had already floated it, but not for a few years, so the timing was right for another trip. We put in on the crystal clear (!) Paxson Lake with no headwinds (!) Friday evening and slowly paddled the 3 miles across the lake in about an hour or so. At the lake outlet the crowds of fishermen were gathered fishing for grayling and lake trout. Luke had to make a quick stop to fish also and caught several grayling and a lake trout for dinner! We camped about about mile 1 of the river and cooked up a grand fish dinner amidst hoards of mosquitos. Jen and scotty got out there little bug-proof mesh tent to sit under.

The next day the weather was awesome, with warm sun shining into our tents early, forcing us to get up or we'd be baked in the tent ovens. Luke got the Dutch Oven going again for some sweet cobbler. We had a long day of paddling and made it to right before the canyon and camped at a very nice spot overlooking the river. Luke and Scott broke out the 'pocket chainsaw' on some spruce and we enjoyed a dinner of Hasselbach potatoes in the Dutch Oven and sausages over the fire and another grayling caught earlier by Martin. Martin also got on a rainbow trout, but it is catch and release only so no eatin'.

The next day we awoke to rain......we portaged our canoes through the canyon rapids and put back into the 'ranging river', class II rapids right below the canyon for the next 8 miles. It looked worse than it really was, but it was actually quite fun, despite the slight drizzle. We all made it through with only one minor little "swimming event". Sveta got to take a little "bath" as she would say. After the rapids, we were all quite cold and those in the front were a little wet from being pounded by rapids so we stopped for lunch and warmed up and dried out in front of a fire. Then hit the river again for another 10 miles or so of paddling toward the final campspot, the Chinook Bar. This part of the river slows down and widens out, and powerboats full of fisherman were encountered. We tried some king salmon fishing, but were unsuccessful, Martin was the only one who got a nibble on his spinning rod. We had another great dinner that night at the Chinook Bar, despite the heavy boat traffic, we ate spaetzle, a german pasta with tomato sauce made by Sveta and Martin, and Luke made a sweet cornbread for desert. Next morning we awoke again to our friend the rain and paddled out of there quickly to escape the weather.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Summertime.....and the livin is easy


We've been pretty busy as of late in our annual manic summer mode. It seems like the long winter spent dreaming about all the things we want to do when summer finally arrives, coupled with the long daylight hours, really lights a fire under us to get out and enjoy the summer. We've been building a small greenhouse with some old storm windows we got from a friend of a friend. The going has been a bit slow for progress on the greenhouse with some of our adventures getting in the way. But, as I'm wont to say: "that's a good problem to have".

Emily is currently up on the north slope working again so last weekend I drove down to the Denali Hwy in search of lake trout. I've heard that the lake trout fishing can be stellar right as the ice goes off some the the lakes in that region so I thought I'd give it a try. I grabbed my fly rods, mountain bike and borrowed an Alpacka Raft from my friend Brain and hit the road. The trail into Landmark Gap Lake is 3 miles and it's a pretty bumpy ride on the bike (especially since I didn't put my suspension fork on the bike yet). About 75-80% of the lake was still covered in ice when I arrived. I didn't set the world on fire as far as fishing goes but I did manage to catch two lakers that were both about 12" on Landmark Gap Lake. I also caught a bunch of grayling in various rivers in the area, including the biggest one I've caught to date. The Landmark Gap Lake is absolutely gorgeous, I'll definitely be back again for a visit. The picture above is of me in the Alpacka.

Landmark Gap Lake mostly covered in ice

Four weekends ago Brian, Josie (Brian's chocolate lab) and I hiked into the mountains near Tok to do a little scouting in the area where I plan to go dall sheep hunting this fall. It was a gorgeous sunny day. We ended up seeing a cow and calf moose, two caribou and 7 dall rams in two separate groups (two of which had full curl horns). I'm already excited to get out there hunting!

Four dall sheep rams

At times it felt like we were climbing Mount Everest

Three weekends ago I canoed the upper Chena River with Cam, Scottie and Jen. Emily's allergies were acting up so she had to sit that one out. On that trip I made enchiladas (dinner) and scones (breakfast) in our new aluminum dutch oven. Cam brought his dutch oven as well and made an apple crisp (dessert) and mountain man breakfast (hash browns, eggs, sausage and cheese). It was quite the culinary experience.

Two weekends ago Emily canoed the Chatanika River with our friends Jen and Scottie. It was a really nice trip with a few tricky paddling parts.

Luke steering the canoe with Scott and Jen in the background

Scott and Jen on the Chatanika