Wednesday, May 21, 2008

The Wurstmeister's Apprentices

This last weekend Brian and I made sausage out of some of the caribou we harvested a couple weeks ago. Ed, a colleague of ours at work, has been kind enough to take us under his wing and show us some of the secrets of making sausage. We ended up with a nice haul of bratwurst and garlic sausage (Ed's specialty). Ed threw the garlic sausage in his smoker for added flavor. So far the spoils of our labor have been well worth it.

Turning the casing inside out prior to stuffing

A good looking ring of garlic sausage

The two wurstmeister's apprentices at work

The wurstmeister showing Brian the proper technique for stuffing

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Biking the Denali Park Road: 2008 Version

Heather, Jeff and I (Luke) drove down to Denali Park on May 10th to ride our bikes in the Park. Unfortunately, Emily had to leave that morning to head back up to Toolik Lake on the north slope for work so she couldn't join us. This is a trip we try and do every year as it is one of the best remedies for spring fever. It's generally a great ride as you can drive further down the Park road (30 vs. 15 miles) than when the park is in full swing during the busy tourist season. After the 30 mile mark the road is closed to vehicles except for the occasional bus in training or road maintenance crew so dealing with dust and vehicles is minimal.

We had great sunny weather for the entire ride. We were surprised that there was more snow on the ground than compared to previous years. Along the way we saw the usual assortment of wildlife (marmots, ptarmigan, caribou, dall sheep and bears). We also had some great views of Denali. We had planned to do a 60 mile round trip ride as there is generally a great view of Denali at mile 60 where we had hoped to turn around. We ended up doing a 53 mile ride as there were three grizzly bears hanging out in the road at mile 56.5. Due to the deep snow on each side of the road they didn't look like they would be moving off the road anytime soon so we decided to give them the right of way and turn back there. Jeff gets credit for all photos.

Dall Sheep rams

Male grizzly bear by the Toklat River

Sow grizzly and two cubs; the reason we turned around where we did


Thursday, May 15, 2008

The Men in White Pajamas

The last weekend in April Luke and a couple friends headed up to the north side of the Brooks Range to hunt caribou. The group included Scott (an old buddy from my days in college working at Afton Alps who is now a backcountry ranger at Denali Park) and Brian (a cheesehead transplanted to AK, like me). It had to be kind of a quick hitter of a trip as Scott had training and didn't arrive in Fairbanks until about 8pm on Thursday night and I had to be on a 6am flight to Anchorage for training on Monday morning. Mix in the fact that it's about an eight hour drive to where we start skiing for our hunt and that our legal hunting area began five miles from the road (the hunting regs require that rifle hunters must be 5 miles from the road); it looked like we'd be burning the candle at both ends. We decided to sleep for a few hours on Thursday night and depart at 3:30am on Friday morning. After a "truckers delight" brunch at Coldfoot Cafe we were fully fueled up for the ski in.

We started skiing with our pulks in tow under partly cloudy skies around noon. After about an hour of skiing a thick fog descended upon us. It was a little disorienting as we were unable to differentiate between the snow on the ground and the foggy horizon. Visibility was definitely under 50 yards and often seemed like about 10 yards. We plucked some coordinates off the map and entered them into Scott's GPS and were able to get ourselves pretty close to where we wanted to camp. After setting up camp we skied around for about an hour "hunting" in the fog. Given the conditions, a caribou would have had to stumble up and practically kiss us if we were going to see it. We ate dinner and decided to hit the sack and hope the fog lifted for us on Saturday.

If you wondering what we eat on adventures like this it's generally a steady diet of pre-cooked bacon and bratwurst, Hostess Fruit Pies and candy bars for breakfast, lunch and snacks. We typically eat freeze dried backpacking meals for dinner. It's a diet that Brian relied on during the 2008 Winter Wilderness Classic a 150 mile race through the Alaskan backcountry that he competed in and finished this last winter. Another staple of the trip was a constant dialog of quotes from the Coen Brothers movie The Big Lebowski, which we can find a way to make apply to most situations and get a few laughs out of.

We woke up on Saturday morning and most of the fog had lifted. We had clear skies and a bit of wind. The temperature was probably around 10F. We skied around a bit and didn't see any caribou during the first hour or so. We decided to ski up the mini-mountain near which we had camped and maybe get lucky and surprise some caribou, which we actually did do. Fortunately for us it didn't work out like we had planned as the group of three spotted us first and took off running. Luckily for us they ran and hunkered down less than a half mile from our camp (and closer to the road). It worked out pretty good as we had some topography to hide behind to get into position for a shot. After the dust settled we had two caribou down and the work was about to begin. We got the caribou quartered up and put into game bags and skied back to break camp and make our way back to the truck. As Emily mentioned in an earlier post she was up in the area conducting snow surveys for her job. Just as we were breaking camp Emily and a colleague rode up on snowmachines. It worked out great as they were parked near us and we were able to ski in their snowmachine tracks all the way back to the truck (about 6 miles). We arrived back to the truck about 8pm.

We drove through the night, with another stop at Coldfoot for a hearty meal, and made it back to Fairbanks about 5am on Sunday. After a few hours of sleep we spent the rest of the day getting the meat processed and put away. The first kabobs have been spectacular! We plan to make some caribou sausage this weekend.

Our camp during whiteout conditions (pic by Brian)

Scott skiing in the distance behind a caribou antler (pic by Brian)

Luke and Scott in the fog (pic by Brian)

Luke glassing for caribou (pic by Brian)

Brian with the Brooks Range in the background

The men in white pajamas (pic by Brian)

Colorado Fish and Ride

I'm (Luke) finally getting around to catching up on blogging about some recent trips. In early April I flew down to Colorado to visit our friends Adan and Mara. During her spring break from teaching Spanish Mara was going to be in Utah testing to be a whitewater guide for a trip in May that she is a chaperon on for juniors in high school down the Green River. Adam and I thought it would be a good idea to fish our way over to Dutch John, Utah, via Wyoming and pick her up so we could all fish our way back to Winter Park, CO together. Adam and I got our butts handed to us on the North Platte in WY as we dealt with steady winds of about 30MPH and gusts up to 45MPH. Even though our casts were not picturesque textbook loops Adam caught a few trout and I ended up getting my first carp on the fly; which, to me, was something to write home about despite the fact that there are some fishermen that would put the carp pretty firmly in the "turd knocker" category.

After meeting up with Mara in Dutch John, UT we spent a couple days fishing the Green River. The fishing (Blue winged olive hatch) and scenery were both great. I'd last spent time on a lower section of the Green when I was 14 on a two week Outward Bound whitewater trip. It was great to reconnect almost 20 years later. We worked our way back to Steamboat Springs and while Mara skied at the ski area Adam and I fished the Yampa River. The Yampa treated us very well with some great action on midges and a herd of about 100 elk watching from the mountains nearby. I caught my first cutbow (a cutthroat/rainbow hybrid) trout in a gorgeous hole nestled among boulders that we fished for a couple hours and could have easily stayed for a few more.

We got back Winter Park and were greeted with 18" of fresh snow. We spent the next two mornings snowboarding at the Winter Park ski area. Adam, being the great photographer that he is, got a few shots of me where it looks like I'm a good snowboarder. My last day there we snowboarded in the morning and fished in the afternoon on the Williams Fork of the Colorado River. It doesn't get much better than that!

A Rocky Mountain Sheep we spotted in Utah


Adam fishing on the Green

Luke and his first cutbow trout

Luke, Mara and Adam near the Yampa

Whooo-ooo!!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Late April on the North Slope at Toolik



Well, it is finally spring in Fairbanks. April was a record snowfall month (we needed the snow though, so I am not complaining). Temperatures are in the mid 60's and we are getting ready to build a greenhouse and other home projects. Hopefully we have some fun weekend getaways in our camper or canoe coming soon.

Emily spent a little over a week on the North Slope at Toolik, right on the edge of the Brooks Range doing field work for her job. Spent most days waiting for weather to improve, but when it was nice, we went flying in the helicopter to visit our meteorological stations and snow survey sites to measure snow depth and density. Also spent time on snowmobiles doing snow surveys.

While she was up there, she ran into Luke, who was hunting 6 miles off the Dalton Highway in the Upper Kuparuk basin, with two friends Scott and Brian. They ended up getting 2 caribou. Hopefully Luke will do a blog post about it soon, but i'll attach the photo that I took of them when I saw them.

We got to see some incredible country on the helicopter flights, through the mountains of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and then out onto the very flat part of the N. Slope.

She is back up there May 10-21 or so for snowmelt and stream gaging.

Here are some photos from the April trip:

Brooks Range - nice visible stratigraphy

View out the window while flying

Emily in the Upper Kuparuk at snow survey site

Finally spot some caribou on this foggy day

flying through Atigun Gorge area

landing at one of our Met Stations

Mountain view

Mountain view again

Co-worker, Ken, taking in the views in the Upper Kuparuk

Scott, Luke, and Brian at their camp, just packing up